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At this point the Navik had a narrow escape . . . we had left the paddle in the water while in La Restinga, and as we angled gently away from the wall it swung out well beyond the edge of the transom and threatened to remove itself on one of the rubber standoffs. A vigourous shove off meant it missed by an inch. We have a spare paddle, but I think it might have also damaged the swinging cradle the paddle sits in, so we were lucky. Lesson learned - always lift the paddle in harbour (or even remove it altogether if necessary).
Once away from the wall I locked the helm over with a bungee and we circled round as we tidied up the eight warps we had used and deflated the big orange fender, then at three o'clock we headed out to sea. There was a NE swell of maybe a metre running, with eight to ten knots of wind from the ESE. Just a few minutes after leaving harbour we were clipping along at five and a half knots on a fine reach with the Navik firmly in command. Fairwinds loves this point of sail - eight knots true wind 60 degreess off the bow and she flies along in an apparent wind of 12 knots. In anything up to F4 with any sea running at all we are happier with the wind a bit forward of the beam. With the wind behind her Fairwinds needs a F5 just to keep the sails calm in a seaway . . . downwind sailing isn't always all it is cracked up to be.
For the next few hours we sped smoothly NE, pushing powerfully over the small short swell - one of the nicest sails we have had since leaving Spain. As night began to fall the wind dropped to six or seven knots, but it was still forward of the beam and we sailed smoothly on, our speed reduced to three or three and a half knots but our progress steady. We ate meatballs with rice and watched the sun go down behind El Hierro, then settled down into the routine of night watches. Kathy did ten 'till one, and for once I had no difficulty sleeping at sea, only waking up a few times when the wind dropped away and the sails began to crash about - but luckily these intervals were short-lived.
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Sunset behind El Hierro |
The nights in January are long here, with over twelve hours of darkness, so we sailed showing just the (very bright) LED anchor light to save the battery. The standing instruction is to switch on the tricolour only when another vessel is sighted - or in an area where traffic is expected of course. In another week we should have an LED tricolour which burns just 4W, and so will be able to blaze away red, green, white and legal all night long with electrical impunity. In fact we sighted just two vessels all night - a ferry on its way to El Hierro which passed us about a mile away and then the Armas ferry Volcan de Tamburiente which overtook us on our final approach to San Sebastian.
Shortly after the start of my watch I put a couple of reefs in the main. It seemd unlilkely that the wind acceleration zone off La Gomera's SE coast would be working tonight, but it is generally prudent not to carry too much sail as one approaches these very high islands in the dark. Slowed but steady I whiled away the first part of my watch listening to a talking book on the MP3 player. It's a great way to pass a night watch, the only downside being the tendency to miss things on the VHF.
As we closed the coast of La Gomera the wind swung round to the South then the SW, exactly as the grib files had predicted, and by the time we were a few miles from Playa de Santiago it was dead aft and rising to eighteen to twenty knots. With the genoa shadowed by the main our speed dropped and as the swell became more confused the main began to crash about in an alarming manner. Rather than fiddling about on the foredeck rigging a preventer I sheeted the main in hard, which allowed the genoa to draw. This is not in any sailing manual I've read, but it worked and we sailed on more comfortably, making four and a half knots through the water with the genoa pulling and the reefed main dampening the rolling. Another couple of miles though and I decided it was time for the main to be put to bed, so I dialed the Navik and round we went, hard on the wind on the genoa while I dropped the main then wrestled to strap it to the wildly gyrating boom with the sail ties - we would tidy it up later in harbour and in daylight.
The last six miles were sailed sedately under genoa, the engine only going on as we rounded the breakwater. I called up the marina on the radio and waffled a bit in pigeon Spanish, and when I didn't understand the reply I transmitted that we were coming in. I saw the night attendant waving us over to the fuel berth as we came in, but as the swell was rolling in the entrance and we wanted to have a night without the boat moving I pretended I didn't understand. I just waved and shouted 'hola', then took Fairwinds round the corner and into an empy berth on G pontoon which I knew from our previous time here was well sheltered. By the time the guy had whizzed round on his bike we were tied up, springs on and everything, and he was happy for us to stay there at least until the office was open.
It felt a bit like coming home. A beer, a dram and so to bed . . . when we saw the office later they were happy with my choice of berth.
We discovered that for the first time this trip we were berthed next to a British boat smaller than us - an Achilles 24 singlehanded by a guy called William who is doing an Atlantic circuit. He is planning to leave for Barbados early next week when the forecast depression has passed through, is hoping to find a crew berth for Antigua race week then heading back . . . maybe we will meet him again in the Azores.
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Aluffe next to Fairwinds |
Dart Warrior is also in San Sebastian today - she is a Warrior 35, a design that is definitely on the short list of boats I would like to own. Her skipper, Kieran, had emailed us before when it looked as though we would be leaving to cross the pond at the same time.
Friday 26th January - San Sebastian
This morning I replaced the small cleat on the starboard cockpit coaming that is used to fasten the 'lazy' side of the continuous roller reefing line. It broke when I stood on it while untangling us from the wall in La Restinga - the whole cross-section where it snapped looked brown and crystalline. (For those not familiar with the Sailspar continuous line reefing system, it is necessary once you have rolled in the desired amount of genoa to not only secure the line you have been pulling but to secure the other side as well - failure to do so may result in the sudden deployment of the full genoa at an inconvenient moment!).
It was a slow, laid back repair session, swapping screws for bolts and chatting with Will from Aluffe next door. I know the Achilles 24 by reputation, but had never been aboard one - at last, a vessel that makes Fairwinds seem cavernous. Will brought Aluffe down to Nazarre in one hop from Falmouth, left her there on the hard for four months then came straight from Nazare to La Gomera in nine days. He is heading for Barbados in a couple of days, and will meet up with his girlfriend in the Caribbean before headng for the Azores after Antigue race week. He is hoping to be back in the UK in July. He seems pretty well organised . . . his idea of storing dry goods such as muesli in empty 4 litre water bottles has been duly noted.
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Will on Aluffe |
To Ambigu in the early evening to research a new project and firm up a quote for a website for a potential new client. It was raining, and I dug the big umbrella out of the cockpit locker. This is the first proper rain we have seen since Funchal in November, and we don't like it.
It was Burns night last night, so tonight Will came on board for haggis, tatties and carrots (we couldn't find a neep) and I'm afraid I recited Tam O' Shanter for his benefit. We finished off with wine, cheese and chocolate an excellent evening of conversation.
Saturday 27th January - San Sebastian
A foul day of rain and strong winds. To the Blue Marlin in the evening - met Kieran and his crew from Dart Warrior, a nice looking Warrior 35. Kieran set off from England two years ago and spent a year in the Med. His girlfriend decided living aboard wasn't for her and returned to the rat race. Kieran decided to head West, and set off for the Canaries with various people he had picked up. He currently has a couple as crew who he met in Puerto Mogan on Gran Canaria - they are diving instructors, and are heading back to the warmer waters of the Caribbean.
Sunday 28th December - San Sebastian
Still windy but the rain has mostly stopped. Played Dungeon Master on the laptop most of the day. Drank too much in the Blue Marlin in the evening and got very maudlin because the bold adventurers on Dart Warrior and Aluffe were heading West while we hang about here waiting for something to happen. I think the fact that Dart Warrior is exactly the boat I always wanted doesn't help.
(You can read Dart Warrior's blog at http://www.dartwarrior.com/)
Monday 29th January - San Sebastian
Weather back to normal. Dart Warrior and Aluffe left for the Caribbean at lunchtime. I think we both wished we were going with them. Instead we put the bedding in to the marina office to get it washed and cleaned out the forepeak.
We think that if we survive/enjoy the sail home we may come back in 2008 and do the circuit . . . we would get a couple of crew and deliver the boat to San Sebastianin a couple of hops next time though. That's a long way off . . . in the meantime, friends from Scotland arrive in a few days for a week's holiday - they have rented an apartment here and will arrive on the Garajonay Express on Friday afternoon.
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aluffe departs San Sebastian
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aluffe gets under way
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Dart Warrior leaving |
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Dart Warrior heads South |
Tues 30th January - San Sebastian
Snow on Teide today down to about 6000ft. The sun came out in the afternoon though and we went for a walk up the hill and a little way along the path to Playa de Santiago. Kathy's ribs are fine now and walking on the steep uneven ground didn't give her any problems. Out for tapas in the evening at the bar in the square - a local bar we hadn't been to before. Hot fresh tuna in slightly spicy olive oil, papas bravas (potatotoes in 'mojo' sauce) and ensaladilla for a total of nine euros, washed down with a couple of jarras of Dorada. The telly in the bar was showing kids on Tenerife sledging and chucking snowballs in the Teide national park. (OK, they were at 6000ft!)
Weds 31st January - San Sebastian
Grey and cold all day. Wrote a 4000 word article - or maybe series of articles - ('Why we didn't cross the Atlantic') in the morning. If there isn't a book in this trip at least there might be a few articles for the yachting comics. After lunch it was up to Ambigu to spend most of the afternoon working on a new client's website and tidying up a few odds and ends for a couple of other clients. For tea, spag bol and a bottle of really good wine (3 euros - a major extravagance). Bed is now warm enough but not too hot thanks to my inspired idea of putting the opened up tropical weight sleeping bag inside the duvet cover. (We put the actual duvet away a long time ago, and have been sleeping under just the duvet cover - but now in midwinter the overnight temperature can drop to fourteen degrees or even lower on occasion).
Thurs 1st February - San Sebastian
Fantastic - warm and sunny again, shorts on straight away this morning. Decided to check the engine anode (small zinc in the heat exchanger) - the manual recommends checking every six months and changing every year or sooner if necessary. It is seven months since the system first tasted salt water and six since we set out from Balvicar. There wasn't any of the anode left - just a couple of tiny flakes. I guess this explains why the (steel) gearbox flange is so rusty. Looks like we may need to change the anode every four months or so - will be checking every three from now on. I was going to remove the heat exchanger element and flush it out, but we only have one set of spare 'o' rings and as we have yet to get the engine up to operating temperature on the gauge I am not too worried about the cooling at the moment. I also tightened up the return hose from the exhaust bend anti syphon loop, as this was showing signs of a slight (salt water) leak. Was going to change the engine oil, but a check in the log showed it is only 90 hours since the last oil change, so I think we will wait a bit longer. While I had the cockpit sole up I burped the Volvo shaft seal . . . it took seven or eight dry burps before water finally came through.
Had a haircut . . . the smalltalk was a bit painful as the barber's Enlish was as good as my Spanish, but the encutment is passable. We blew up the dinghy with a view to using it as a platform for scrubbing most of the underwater hull (with some snorkelling as required) - but the wind got up and it started to feel too cold, so that job has been postponed - maybe tomorrow morning. It will have to be done though or we will have to take Fairwinds to the barbers.
Friends arrive on the ferry tomorrow evening for a week's holiday in an apartment here in San Sebastian . . . we are looking forward to them taking us out for meals and letting us use the bath in their apartment.
Fri 2nd February - San Sebastian
Our friends from Aberdeenshire arrived on the six fifteen Benchijigua Express bearing gifts - fresh newspapers, yachting mags, peanut butter, boat and computer bits and other goodies. After a bit of Spanish chaos getting the keys to their apartment we went out for a very nice meal.
Sat 3rd February - San Sebastian
The big thing in the morning was the departure of Graham, the guy who is rowing the 40 year old 'Puffin' across the Atlantic as a tribute to the two guys who died trying to row her from West to East 40 years ago. It is an extraordinary story - check it out on Graham's website, Atlantic Puffin.
Wandered round the town with Joan, Eddie and Jill in the afternoon then went for a walk up to the Parador and the lighthouse. Out for an even better meal in the evening . . . we are going to put on weight this week.
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Puffin leaving |
Sun 4th February - San Sebastian
Highlight of the day was a walk up to the statue of Christ overlooking the harbour, although Jill was the only one of the holidaymakers who made it all the way up. Spectacular views over to Teide, which had some snow on it to make the Aberdeenshire contingent feel at home.
I booked a car for tomorrow and Tuesday so we can show them a bit more of the island. In the evening Kathy made pasta round at the apartment and I managed to get a fair bit of work done using a nearby wireless network.
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Jill, Kathy and Mt Teide |
Mon/Tues 5th/6th February - Island Tour
Drove up into the National Park and walked up to the Alto de Garajonay - a beautiful clear day with stunning views across to Tenerife and up to La Palma. Jill and Joan were both very impressed by the scenery, Eddie possibly less so - although he liked Valley Gran Rey, where we enjoyed a beer by the harbour, then back to San Sebastian via coffee and cake in Hermigua.
On the Tuesday we drove back up into the park and went for a short walk from La Laguna, then had a picnic on the way down at a viewpoint overlooking the Benchijigua ravine. It was a bit cold and Scottish up in the park, and I think our guests were pleased to be back in the late afternoon warmth of San Sebastian.
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Garajonay Magic |
Weds 7th February - San Sebastian
A quiet day for the Drumtochty crew, wandering round town looking at the shops or chilling out on their rooftop terrace. I managed to get a lot of work done in the evening. Foolishly wandered into Ambigu on the way back to the boat where an encounter with Jules (from Whonose) and Martin the nice German guy ended up as another late might with too much drink taken.
Thurs 8th February - A Wee Sail (8nm)
Jill and Joan both wanted to go sailing, although Eddie was determined to keep his feet on dry land. We drifted out into the wind acceleration zone, had a wee burst of speed then sailed slowly down to the bay at Playa de El Cabrito where we anchored for lunch. A very leisurely sail back was satisfactorily concluded when Kathy parked the boat perfectly back on the pontoon. A roasting hot afternoon - Joan and I went swimming. I have the negatives.
In the evening we went out for our last meal together - once again, very enjoyable. Jill came for one last nightcap in Ambigu .
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Fairwinds in the harbour |
Fri 9th February - San Sebastian
Saw Joan, Eddie and Jill off on the Garajonay Express at twelve o'clock, off to Tenerife for their flight back to wintry Aberdeenshire. Just for a few minutes I wished we were going with them, then common sense prevailed and we wandered back to Fairwinds sitting on her pontoon in the sunshine.
Later I helped Bhavik fit a tripping line to his parachute sea anchor and offered some advice on deploying it. (If you remember, Bhavik is the other would-be Atlantic rower). Bhavik is planning to finally leave some time this weekend now he has sorted out his hassles with the Tenerife Port Authority. I am rather worried by his complete lack of knowledge when it comes to boats, seamanship etc. I showed him how to tie a bowline and mended the track for the moving rowing seat, then advised he purchase a few tools before setting off.
After lunch we had a much needed siesta - it is hard work being on other peoples' holidays. When we woke up it was on the computer then off to Ambigu to upload over a week's worth of blog.
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Joan and Eddie
The Garajonay Express
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Sat/Sun 10/11th February - San Sebastian
A bit of a lost weekend spent in the company of Dr Whonose (aka Jules), with assistance from Alex, the skipper of Whonose, Paul (skipper of Thankful) and Martin the German from Flying Seawitch.
On Saturday I had a refreshing swim and had almost recovered when we fell in with bad company again . . . this time I ended up in the nightclub at the end of the beach until five in the morning. After talking to Scott, the Tenerifean barman in Ambigu who speaks broad Scots - learned from his Aberdonian father - we have decided to head over to Tenerife to see the Carnival in Santa Cruz, which is supposed to be the second biggest after Rio de Janeiro.
Sunday was spent in recovery mode until late afternoon, when we wandered over to look at the Children's Carnival extravaganza, a riot of astoundingly complex costumes that must have taken months to make yet which only seemed to appear onstage for a few minutes. Tapas and a couple of beers at Cuba Libre followed, while the Dr. held an impromtu surgery on the pavement. We made our excuses and had an early night. |
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The Doctor Is In
A Bad Head Day
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Monday 12th February - San Sebastian
The main event today was the final departure of Bhavik, the would-be solo Atlantic rower in the rowing boat Miss Olive. I felt quite guilty when I threw the last line aboard and pushed him off, as I knew he shouldn't be doing it. He can't tie a bowline, doesn't know how to use his GPS, has no Caribbean charts . . . the list is endless. Basically he just wasn't ready to go to sea, in spite of having spent a year in preparation. I think he had backed himself into a corner and felt he had to leave. I don't knowl,maybe I am wrong and he will make it, but I have my doubts. He has an EPIRB and three satphones, so I guess he should be able to get himself rescued if necessary . . . we will see.
Tomorrow we are off to Tenerife.
UPDATE . . . on our way to Tenerife the next day Tues 13th Feb about 4pm we heard Bhavik on the VHF talking to the Fred Olsen fast ferry Benchijigua Express on its way from Los Christianos to El Hierro. After establishing that he wasn't going to be run down he apeared to want some information about El Hierro, but then the transmission broke up and we didn't hear any more. As of the 14th he had not updated his website log . . . I wonder if he has put into El Hierro. |
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Bhavik leaving San Sebastian
Ahead the Atlantic
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